Post your latest print!

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IRobertI Moderator Points: 5874
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Location: Sweden Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker 2 Extended, Ultimaker 2 Go
Posted by
IRobertI

Posted Apr 16, 2012 - 5:39 PM   Sticky

It feels like we've had too many threads with people having trouble with their printers lately so I figured, why not start a positive thread to balance it out

Post your latest print here, be it big, small, advanced or simple. Get people inspired to print more stuff.

I'll start out with my latest little creation that I recently finished. It's a PCB vise used for holding PCBs while soldering (or whatever else you might be doing to them. I'd say it's my first real "product" to come out of my printer.

This was sliced with Netfabb using the "Standard" profile.

If you want your own copy you can download it from Thingiverse

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Daid Team Ultimaker Points: 6182
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Posted by
Daid

Posted Apr 18, 2012 - 12:44 AM

Not a clear photo, but it's a multi color unicorn!

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c-ernst I know my way around here Level: 21 Points: 199
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c-ernst

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 5:20 AM

Half of a Cybersubzero (Mortal Kombat) helmet... life size!

this is the character in the game:

http://www.giantbomb.com/sub-zero/94-2/ ... 1-1745837/

This was printed before I got my temps in order.. some warping and rough lines here and there but still didn't do a bad job. No fill, 7.75" tall per half. Each half took 5 hours at .2mm height.

Basically the head will b printed in four pieces and puttied together.

Chuck

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tabularo 3D printing enthusiast Level: 15 Points: 62
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tabularo

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 5:58 AM

Half of a Cybersubzero (Mortal Kombat) helmet... life size!

this is the character in the game:

http://www.giantbomb.com/sub-zero/94-2/ ... 1-1745837/

This was printed before I got my temps in order.. some warping and rough lines here and there but still didn't do a bad job. No fill, 7.75" tall per half. Each half took 5 hours at .2mm height.

Basically the head will b printed in four pieces and puttied together.

Chuck

That looks amazing! Is that in ABS or PLA and did you use NetFabb? You've got my mind thinking about a bunch of new projects now

Daid Team Ultimaker Points: 6182
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Posted by
Daid

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 10:36 AM

Awesome! Now it's just a wait till someone prints out a full ironman suit.

My latest print. Done with the experimental project planner in Cura. Which means the objects are printed one after another, instead of at the same time. Removing strings and increasing print quality.

It's printed in yellow, but that's not very visible in this light. I had already printed 2 smaller gears and printing big gears and the final connectors right now in 1 go.

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c-ernst I know my way around here Level: 21 Points: 199
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c-ernst

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 2:01 PM

Wait... so they are printed one at a time on the platform but far enough apart where the head doesn't hit each other?

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c-ernst I know my way around here Level: 21 Points: 199
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c-ernst

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 2:02 PM

The helmet is PLA. I ran out so until I get my latest shipment it will have to remain 1/2 helmet.

Chuck

Daid Team Ultimaker Points: 6182
Posts: 4667
Posted by
Daid

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 3:01 PM • Edited  May 20, 2015 - 5:12 PM • by chin

Wait... so they are printed one at a time on the platform but far enough apart where the head doesn't hit each other?
Yep.

See these screenshots:

http://daid2.mine.nu/...a-ProjectPlanner.png

http://daid2.mine.nu/...-ProjectPlanner2.png

It's still in development. As it doesn't account for support (which makes the print move area larger), doesn't work with a raft, and it managed to hit the cube center piece after printing because of the end code. But it does work. I should, I hope, have the rest of the gear cube ready when I get home. Or I have a lot of wasted filament

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thedudevt I know my way around here Level: 21 Points: 207
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thedudevt

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 6:17 PM

Wow, i'm really looking forward to trying out project planning Daid, if it has reasonably accurate time estimates, it will really help optimize unattended printing. My work shift is about 9.5 hrs front door to front door. I'd love to be able to cue up a full 9.5 hours of printing to run while i'm at work (or sleeping). A web cam, and remote desktop, and you could even pull the plug remotely if a part detaches from the bed.

Kyle

Daid Team Ultimaker Points: 6182
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Posted by
Daid

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 7:04 PM

There is no time estimate on the project planner yet. But if you know how long a single print would take, then you can add those up. For example, the larger gear parts take about 1h10 on my settings. The pin connectors only 10-15 minutes I think. So the plate of Gear1 with sets of 3 pin connectors took about 5h30 I think.

Anyhow, they where printed when I got home:

(I knew the points would be burned, but that makes the points soft instead of very sharp)

And that makes 3!

But you can try it now if you want, if you install the development version of Cura:

https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki/Insta ... nt-version

You do need to make sure that first layer works. I've set the first layer to 20mm/s, 0.3mm and with 220C then it really sticks well for me.

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tabularo 3D printing enthusiast Level: 15 Points: 62
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tabularo

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 9:00 PM

Awesome! Now it's just a wait till someone prints out a full ironman suit.

Funny you should say that since the Iron Man suit in Iron Man 2 WAS printed on a 3D printer:

http://www.3dprinter.net/3d-printing-an ... iron-man-2

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alaris2 I know my way around here Level: 30 Points: 519
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alaris2

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 11:05 PM

Daid, are you saying we can set different values for the first layer in the next release of Cura?

"I've set the first layer to 20mm/s, 0.3mm and with 220C then it really sticks well for me."

'cos you normally print at 180C don't you? or did you just manually insert some extra gcode for that?

Daid Team Ultimaker Points: 6182
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Posted by
Daid

Posted Apr 23, 2012 - 11:58 PM

I've been experimenting with different temperatures. 190-200C works really well to get detailed objects and no strings. But 220C works really well to get the first layer to stick. 220C also gives a nicer finish then 200C.

Currently it's not possible to change the temperature for the first layer (unless you use some replace.csv tricks) but it might be interesting to add that. It is currently possible to enable the fan on the 2nd layer, which might also work to get the first layer to stick properly at 200C.

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c-ernst I know my way around here Level: 21 Points: 199
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c-ernst

Posted Apr 24, 2012 - 6:13 AM

Speaking of Iron Man... just saw this today

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20120422- ... -suit.html

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approx

Posted Apr 30, 2012 - 7:51 AM

My first attempt at printing the Eiffel tower http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22051.

It failed mid way..Well i wasnt expecting it to succeed with all the detail, overhangs etc... but i said what the heck - let me give it a try and see how far it goes..

Picture Attached.

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c-ernst I know my way around here Level: 21 Points: 199
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c-ernst

Posted May 1, 2012 - 12:45 AM

nice!...

It never fails to amaze me the objects that this machine will print. Sometimes I look at a file and spend a while trying to figure out how to cut it up so it will print, then I say... what the heck send it over and see what happens.

8 out of 10 times a file I think that there is no way will print will print.

I have even managed to get 3 inch holes to bridge.

Chuck

ian Becoming an expert Level: 58 Points: 2737
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Posted by
ian

Posted May 1, 2012 - 3:04 AM

My first attempt at printing the Eiffel tower http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22051.

It failed mid way..Well i wasnt expecting it to succeed with all the detail, overhangs etc... but i said what the heck - let me give it a try and see how far it goes..

Picture Attached.

this is really what i love to see.

users not wasting time tweaking their printers for 3 months and then printing a box.. no no

keep up the great work !!

I love seeing the ultimaker taking on these complex forms.

Ian

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destroyer2012 I know my way around here Level: 23 Points: 314
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destroyer2012

Posted May 1, 2012 - 8:14 AM

Took a couple of iterations of this thing to get it to print smoothly. It's a transfer RNA structure by the way.

http://www.rcsb.org/pdb/101/motm.do?momID=15

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alaris2 I know my way around here Level: 30 Points: 519
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alaris2

Posted May 1, 2012 - 12:01 PM

the eiffel tower one looks like an interesting challenge. what settings did you use for that? support? speed?

I think we can't easily avoid it burning near the tip without additional cooling fans but otherwuise it might be possible.

IRobertI Moderator Points: 5874
Posts: 3236
Location: Sweden Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker 2 Extended, Ultimaker 2 Go
Posted by
IRobertI

Posted May 1, 2012 - 4:20 PM

Not terribly exciting but I thought it came out rather nice. A bit of paint and elbow grease goes a long way to make clean looking prints. Unfortunately I managed to snap the lid (far left in the pic) just when I was done with the last sweep... couldn't be arsed to replace it.

IRobertI Moderator Points: 5874
Posts: 3236
Location: Sweden Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker 2 Extended, Ultimaker 2 Go
Posted by
IRobertI

Posted May 1, 2012 - 10:51 PM

Note to self: Please check that your model can actually be sliced properly before printing it...

I'm just glad I went to check on it and didn't let it run for three hours And also, isn't it amazing how well prints can recover even after "printing" several layers of air followed by layers of barely anything.

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thedudevt I know my way around here Level: 21 Points: 207
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thedudevt

Posted May 2, 2012 - 2:56 AM

Top to bottom:

Tools: Craftsman 5.5mm wrench, Wiha (stock) driver, Pallet knife for removing parts (awesome)

Prints:

20x20x1.6 wall T-Slot -

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10261

got the settings dialed for solid walls, next I'll add 20mm circles to the base so I can print the full 210mm height without it falling over.

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Ultimaker mascot (first print after cal cylinders) -

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11551

Shiny!

ghagen Ultimaker Extruder (right) -

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15897

reprinted the bearing holder and added a couple M5 wave washers, ready to try it again.

scottymason Ultistruder (Left)-

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19551

still looking for a good spring, got some on order from McMaster-Carr.

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approx 3D printing enthusiast Level: 20 Points: 190
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Posted by
A
approx

Posted May 2, 2012 - 3:54 AM

the eiffel tower one looks like an interesting challenge. what settings did you use for that? support? speed?

I think we can't easily avoid it burning near the tip without additional cooling fans but otherwuise it might be possible.

I sliced it in Cura. 50mm/sec. .2mm layer height, Fill density: 80% No support. Travel speed: 200mm/s, Retraction (2mm, 30mm/s, mim travel 6mm). There were times when I had to manually adjust (lower) the speed in printrun.

Here is a short video of it printing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZfgIYnSzts

Will take up the challenge again some day ..

Ian: Thanks for your comments.

- Hitesh

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approx 3D printing enthusiast Level: 20 Points: 190
Posts: 60
Posted by
A
approx

Posted May 2, 2012 - 3:55 AM

ghagen Ultimaker Extruder (right) -

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15897

reprinted the bearing holder and added a couple M5 wave washers, ready to try it again.

.

How is The Ghagen extruder working for you?

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thedudevt I know my way around here Level: 21 Points: 207
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thedudevt

Posted May 2, 2012 - 4:36 AM

I posted some of my issues in the dedicated thread. The machined drive bolt is really nice. The first bearing holder I printed (the black swing arm) had too little infill and the post the bearing sits on crushed in use. Totally my fault for not printing it sturdy though.

I machined my own 8-32 dowel nut and picked out a thumbscrew nut and some M4 spring washers at my local hardware store. Right now I have two wave washers seperated by regular washers to put them in series. The action is very smooth and it feels good in the hand with a pull test (hold the gear still and pull on the filament). I've read reports that the motor will skip before the filament grinds due to the larger diameter. That seems like a positive feature but I think I need to see it in practice to be sure.

My bot seems to be stable again (finally!) after nearly a month of problems. One step forward two steps back... I modded the bowden tube with an M6 thread on the hot end and chopped ~6mm off the threaded brass tube so now the bowden threads into the PEEK part. Since then I haven't had any problems with the stock extruder slipping. I also added a jam nut to the thumb screw so it can't be over tightened or loosen from vibrations.

The original extruder also has the cam lock, and the new easily removable (to clean) bolt so now that it's running well, I'm really starting to appreciate the design of the stock parts. Both the ghagen and the ultistruder seem like they'd be difficult to clean without a full on tear-down.

The only reason I have to change at this point is so I can have a matching pair for dual extrusion.

I've got some projects I need to clear but once I do I'll try the ghagen extruder again.

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alaris2 I know my way around here Level: 30 Points: 519
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Posted by
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alaris2

Posted May 2, 2012 - 1:05 PM

the eiffel tower one looks like an interesting challenge. what settings did you use for that? support? speed?

I think we can't easily avoid it burning near the tip without additional cooling fans but otherwuise it might be possible.

I sliced it in Cura. 50mm/sec. .2mm layer height, Fill density: 80% No support. Travel speed: 200mm/s, Retraction (2mm, 30mm/s, mim travel 6mm). There were times when I had to manually adjust (lower) the speed in printrun.

Here is a short video of it printing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZfgIYnSzts

Will take up the challenge again some day ..

- Hitesh

well I like a challenge so I had a go with 20mm/s, .1mm layers, 50% fill, retracting at 50mm/s with min travel of 5mm (otherwise same as you).

it gave the poor extruder motor a good workout, and printed awesomely until it got kicked off the bed about half way up.

I don't know why the French didn't build it solid with 20% infill...

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