For more experienced users there are also ‘Expert’ settings. The average user won’t really use these settings, but if you’re an advanced user and want to expirement a lot it could be interesting to play with these settings.
You can also access the Expert settings of the specific setting by clicking on the “...” box displayed next to the setting in the Basic and Advanced tabs.
Here you can change settings that relate to retraction of the filament. Overall, the default settings will work fine, but if you’re using different materials you might require different retraction settings as well to achieve the best results.
The skirt is a line that is printed around the object on the first layer. It helps to get the extrusion running and it’s a good way for checking the bed leveling just before your model is being printed. In some cases you might want to change the Skirt settings; for example if you are printing an object that covers the complete surface of the build plate and want to double-check the bed leveling.
Although the fans on the Ultimaker will always be full on after the first couple of layers you can also change the cooling parameters here. Especially if you are working with different materials that require different temperatures and cooling it might be helpful to adjust these settings.
Besides just setting the fill density and thickness of the bottom and top of the print there are a few more infill settings that can be changed. Especially the “Solid infill top” and “Solid infill bottom” are used quite often. If you disable one of these settings it means that either the top or bottom layer of the print won’t be printed. For example when printing a vase you can turn the “Solid infill top” off and set the fill density to 0%.
In some cases it’s better to not use the default Support settings, but to play a bit around with it. A different structure, overhang angle or fill amount can for example result in more or stronger support. Depending on the model this can lead to a better end result.
These are extra options that can be useful in specific cases. When selecting the “Spiralize the outer contour” option, you can get rid of the seam in the print. Usually the height of the Z-stage will drop a bit after each layer, but with this option it will gradually move down (like a spiral). For printing single-walled objects (e.g. a vase) this option can be very useful. The “Only follow mesh surface” option allows you to print only the outside of the model (but without bottom and top).
Here you can change the size of the brim. More lines means a bigger brim and even better platform adhesion. In most cases the default of 20 lines will be sufficient.
For the Raft there are a lot of parameters that can be changed. We won’t go in to detail here, but if you’re working a lot with rafts it can be helpful to experiment with these settings.
If a model is not correctly designed for 3D printing it can occur that the Ultimaker won’t print the model as desired. There could for example be gaps or intersecting parts in the model. The “Fix horrible” settings often help fixing these faults in models. You might need to try several combinations and check the result in the Layers view.