For replacing the complete hot end several steps are required; these are described here.
Important: Make sure filament is removed, the Ultimaker is turned off and power supply disconnected before you start the replacement.
Note: These instructions are the same for the Ultimaker 2 Go, Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 2 Extended.
1. Removing the bowden tube
- Manually move the print head towards to center of the Ultimaker for easier access.
- Remove the (blue or red) clamp clip.
- Press down the tube coupling collet and pull the bowden tube out of the print head.
2. Take the print head out of the Ultimaker
- Tilt the sliding blocks on the left and right side of the X-axis of the print head a little bit so the X-axis gets loose.
- Move the print head towards the front side and push on the Y-axis just behind the print head; now the Y-axis will get loose as well.
- Take the print head and the two axes out of the Ultimaker.
3. Loosening the print head housing
- Put some tape (can be any tape) around the print head housing so it doesn’t fall apart later on.
- Loosen the 4 thumbscrews that go from top to bottom through the print head. Now you will see 2 parts: the print head housing and the hot end part.
4. Disassembling the hot end
- Remove the fan bracket; it’s attached with 2 screws on either side of the hot end.
- Loosen the 2 screws that are in the top aluminum plate, after which you can take out the spring and PTFE coupler.
- Loosen the nozzle from the hot end isolator (the metal part with the holes in it) by inserting a hex key in one of the holes of the hot end isolator and turning it counter clockwise. This way the nozzle will move down and loosen.
- Next, loosen the set screw that is attached to the top of the heater block and carefully pull out the PT100 B sensor* and heater cartridge.
*Important: Do not pull at the PT100 B sensor with much force, it can break. Take the PT100 B sensor cable out with a twisting motion, and apply some sewing machine oil or WD40 to the heater block if it feels stuck.