Replace the hot end isolator

The hot end isolator is a stainless steel collar in the hot end that connects the heater block to the TFM coupler.

If the heater block and the TFM coupler do not properly connect, molten material can gather on the thread on the inside of the hot end isolator. If this material hardens, the hot end isolator will be unable to screw onto the heater block. In this case, it is recommended to replace the hot end isolator.

⚠ Caution: Make sure filament is removed, the Ultimaker is turned off and power supply disconnected before you start the replacement.

✔ Tip: It is advised to perform the Atomic Method before starting this repair. Filament stuck in between the hot end parts can act like glue, making it very difficult to disassemble the parts.

Parts required:

  • 1x 1310 Hot end isolator

Tools required:

  • Hex screwdriver
  • Blue tape
  • Print head alignment aid


  • 15 minutes


1. Remove the clamp clip

  • Position the print head in the front-right corner of the printer.
  • Remove the blue clamp clip.

2. Remove the Bowden tube

  • Press down on the white tube coupling collet.
  • At the same time, pull the Bowden tube upwards and out of the print head.

3. Remove the thumb screws

  • Position the print head at the mid-point of the X and Y axes for easier access.
  • Loosen the four thumb screws and remove them from the print head.
  • Secure the three parts of the print head housing with tape to ensure that they stay together.

Removing the clamp clip
Removing the Bowden tube

4. Remove the fan bracket

  • The fan bracket is attached with two M3x4 bolts on either side of the hot end.
  • Use a hex screwdriver to remove all four bolts.

5. Open the hot end holder

  • Loosen the two M3x10 bolts that are in the top aluminum plate.
  • Remove this plate to access the hot end parts.

6. Remove the spacer and the TFM coupler

  • Take the spacer from the TFM coupler.
  • Pull the TFM coupler out of the hot end isolator.

✔ Tip: The TFM coupler fits tightly in the hot end isolator. If necessary use the hex screwdriver to push it out.

7. Remove the hot end isolator

  • Insert the hex screwdriver into one of the holes of the hot end isolator.
  • Turn it counterclockwise to unscrew it from the heater block.

Remove fan bracket
Remove bolts aluminium plate
Remove aluminium plate
Remove TFM coupler
Remove hot end isolator


1. Place the hot end isolator

  • Take the new hot end isolator and, if available, apply copper grease to its edge.
  • Place it through the left opening of the aluminum hot end holder bottom.

2. Attach the heater block to the hot end

  • Insert the M3x16 countersunk bolt through the hole in the hot end holder bottom and align the thread of the heater block with the hot end isolator.
  • Using your hands, screw the hot end isolator clockwise onto the heater block.
  • Use the hex screwdriver to tighten it until the bottom of the hot end isolator hits the top of the heater block.

3. Place the TFM coupler and spacer

  • Put the TFM coupler in the hot end isolator. Make sure it is fully inserted.
  • Place the spacer on top of the TFM coupler.

4. Secure the hot end parts

  • Place the hot end holder top on the cooling rib.
  • Secure with the two M3x10 bolts.

Place new hot end isolator
Attach heater block
Tighten hot end isolator
Replace TFM coupler
Replace spacer
Secure aluminium plate

5. Attach the fan bracket to the hot end

  • Align the fan bracket with the hot end.
  • Secure the fan bracket to the hot end with the four M3x4 bolts.

✔ Tip: To ensure that the nozzle is precisely in the middle of the hole in the fan bracket, first only loosely secure each of the four bolts. Look at the bottom of the print head to align the nozzle, then tighten the four bolts completely.

⚠ Caution: If the nozzle touches the sides of the hole in the fan bracket, the heat will conduct throughout the bracket. This will make it harder for the Ultimaker 2+ to maintain its temperature during printing, which can lead to quality issues, error messages or print defects.

Attach fan bracket
Nozzle centered in fan bracket

6. Align the print head housing and the hot end

  • Remove the tape from the print head housing.
  • Move the hot end upwards to align it with the housing parts.

7. Attach the print head housing to the hot end

  • Insert the four thumb screws, but only secure them loosely.

✔ Tip: Make sure that all cables run neatly side by side and the fan wires are not behind the back two thumb screws.

Align print head housing
Insert thumb screws
Print head cable management

8. Tighten the thumb screws

  • Completely tighten the two thumb screws at the back by hand.
  • To tighten the front two thumb screws, use the calibration spacer. Place the tool in between the aluminum plates of the hot end.
  • Tighten the front two thumb screws until the tool fits securely between the plates, but can still easily be removed.

⚠ Caution: The print head alignment aid is very important to set the correct pressure on the hot end. Securing the print head too loosely may lead to leakages, while over tightening the thumb screws will decrease the lifespan of the TFM coupler.

Place print head alignment aid
Use print head alignment aid

9. Insert the Bowden tube

  • Press down on the tube coupling collet in the print head.
  • Push the Bowden tube all the way in.

10. Ensure the Bowden tube is correctly inserted

  • Let go of the tube coupling collet and gently pull the Bowden tube, along with the tube coupling collet, approximately 2 mm upwards.
  • Hold the tube coupling collet up with your fingernail.
  • While holding the tube coupling collet up, push the Bowden tube down again.

Insert Bowden tube
Fully insert Bowden tube

11. Secure the clamp clip

  • Place the blue clamp clip around the tube coupling collet to secure the Bowden tube.

Place clamp clip

Download this information as a PDF