How to Install a Heated Bed and Printhead Heater Cartridge for the Ultimaker 2 Go

Contributed by
Aubrey Woern and Joshua Pearce

This is a short guide to add a heated bed to the open source Ultimaker 2 Go.

A heated bed will increase the energy use of the printer and the environmental footprint, however, our research has shown the environmental impact of distributed manufacturing is still much better than conventional manufacturing. The heated bed will expand the range of materials available for the 2Go. The basics steps are to remove the current bed, add the heater pad, remove the hot end and replace it with a print head heater cartridge. Also, this upgrade will allow the hot end to warm up much faster.

Safety

  • Burn warning: To reduce risk of burns, do not touch hot end, nozzle or heated bed during or directly after operation. Do not turn on heat pad, or hot end during installation.
  • Electrical Shock: Turn off power and unplug from mains voltage when working on the control board of the Ultimaker 2 Go.
  • Damage to Equipment: Always work on your 3D printer with the power switch off and unplugged from the wall outlet.

Tools Needed

The tools that are needed for this entire installation are shown in Table 1. The Hex Key Wrenches (a.k.a Allen Wrenches) come with the Ultimaker 2 Go except for the 1/16” one. The heat shrink tubing is optional, but highly recommended to reduce premature wear on the heating pad power cables and thermistor. A heat source such as a heat gun is required to melt the shrink tubing. Zip ties are also optional and are used to organize the wires. Links to purchase on Amazon are shown in the Table 1 for reference.

Table 1. Tools needed

Name:Use:Purchase Link:
1.5mm Hex Key WrenchHeater Cartridgeamazon
2.0mm Hex Key WrenchBed Plate, Side Panelsamazon
1/16” Hex Key WrenchHeater Cartridge Set Screwamazon
Small Flat Head Screw DriverWire Terminalsamazon
1.5 in of ¼” Heat Shrink TubingHeated Bed Wire Protectionamazon
Zip ties Wire Organizationamazon

Firmware

The firmware is available free here.

  • Click on the recommended Firmware Named “TinkerGnome um2go firmware”
  • Install using  Cura : Machine > Install Custom Firmware
  • Make sure the printer is plugged in and turned on with a USB connecting it to the computer.
  • Select the firmware and run it. If there are no error messages, you have successfully installed the new firmware on your Ultimaker 2 Go.

Bed Installation

  1. Remove the glass build plate by turning the clamps outward. Set glass plate aside carefully to avoid damage.

       

    Glass Plate Removal
    Glass plate removal

  2. Raise Build Plate to access the thumb screws on the bottom of the platform:

       

    Raise Build Platform to Middle
    Raise build platform to middle

  3. Remove the bed spring assembly by holding thumbscrew and loosening with the 2mm hex key wrench. Set aside hardware in the order it came off.

       

    Use 2mm Hex
    Remove bed springs

  4. Repeat Step 3 on all three bed springs. Once completed, the print bed will be free to remove from the 3D printer.

       

    Remove the Bed
    Remove bed plate from platform

  5. Remove adhesive backing from the heater pad and place on the bottom of the now removed print bed. Align with the center. Wires routed towards the rear.

       

    Heater Pad
    Heater pad stuck to bottom of removed bed

    Optional:  Slide on the 1.5 inches of ¼” Heat Shrink to protect the heater pad power and thermistor wires. Heat with a heat gun.


  6. Replace the bed back into printer, start replacing the spring assemblies at the rear first. Make sure to follow the same order for the spring assembly in which they were taken off. Replace the Glass build plate.

       

    Bed Plate back
    Replace springs starting at back (note heat shrink showing in back right).

  7. Flip the printer on its side. Remove the 3 M3 Screws holding onto the bottom electronics cover. The bolt heads are on the bottom of the inside of the printer. Note: To more easily route the wires to the control board remove the side panel by unscrewing the 8 M3 screws and sliding it straight up.

       

    Remove Electronics
    Remove electronics cover

  8. Route the bed heater pad power wires as shown below:

       

    Side Panel Removed
    Side panel removed

  9. Run the new 40-Watt Heater Cartridge through the hole the original hot-end wires go through.

       

    Running Hot-end
    Running hot-end cartridge through back panel

  10. Replace the side panel, taking care to make sure the bearing rods are in the bearings. The panel should easily slide back in place, do not force it.

       

    Replace Side Panel
    Replace side panel

  11. Remove the black box so you can get to the heater terminals.

    Figure 11. Remove Black box to access the green heater terminals

  12. Use the micro flat head screwdriver to push in the power terminal for the heated bed. The terminal for the heated bed is on the far left when looking at it.

       

    Plug in Heater Power
    Plug in heater power wires to far-left green terminal

  13. Plug in the heated bed thermistor into TEMP 3 on the control board. This is the far-left connector for thermistors. TEMP 1 is for the nozzle thermistor and should be left in.

       

    Plug in heated bed
    Plug in heated bed thermistor into TEMP 3

  14. Install the new hot-end heater cartridge power wires by first taking out the existing ones, then removing the entire terminal by sliding it away from the board. This makes it easier to access. Then install the new power wires.

       

    Remove-Hot-end-terminal

  15. Plug terminal back into the board. Wiring is complete, keep cover off until  you can test the electronics once everything is installed.

       

    Plug terminal back
    Plug terminal back into the control board

  16. Remove the 4 thumb screws holding onto the extruder assembly. Make sure to hold the bottom to prevent it dropping. Then remove the Bowden clip and Bowden tube by pushing down on the white coupler.

       

    Remove 4 thumbscrews

  17. Remove the four M3 screws holding onto the hot-end mount. Be careful when removing the hot-end mount because it is under spring tension. Two screws are on top, two are on the side.

       

    Remove 4 M3 Screws
    Remove screws while holding on the top of the hot-end mount
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  18. To remove the heater block, use something small like a hex wrench and stick it in the aluminum cylinder as shown, then leverage it off by rotating the wrench counter clockwise.

       

    Take off the Heater Block
    Unscrew metal cylinder

  19. Use a 1/16” Hex Key Wrench to remove the set screw holding in the heater cartridge. You might need to use a little heat and WD-40 to loosen the screw.

       

    Remove heater cartridge

  20. Replace the old heater with the new one and replace the set screw. Then follow the directions in reverse to put everything back together on the hot end. Zip tie the new heater wires to the outside of the wire sheath. You are ready to Print!

Operating your upgraded 3D printer

  1. Once the hot end is put back together, and everything is wired up, turn on the printer and test it manually to make sure  everything works.

    The new firmware is self-explanatory, but it is useful to go through it a few times to familiarize yourself with where everything is.

  2. Once you have confirmed that the heated bed and the nozzle both heat up, and that all other functions are normal, turn it off and then you can replace the bottom electronics cover. Be careful not to pinch any wires between the cover and the frame.
  3. The heated bed must be enabled in the materials settings menu. For example, if you want to print PLA with a 60° C bed. First, you need to go to the PLA Menu, and hit customize, then bed temperatures > 60° C. Make sure you choose ‘save’.
  4. A glue stick on the bed was still needed to print in ABS, but your results might vary with different brands.
  5. With this upgrade, the heated bed can reach up to 115° C and the nozzle can reach 290° C, so new materials could be experimented with, using caution.
  6. Keep a close eye on it while first printing with the upgrade to make sure  everything is functioning properly.

Happy 3D Printing. Remember to always share your designs with an open source license and help the community by contributing comments, upgrades, and advice.

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