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I think you can just do a one layer thin extra layer on top and poke through the holes because then your nozzle will just be evenly filling it all in. Basically in a 3d app put a shape over tye bottom that matches the total bottom layer height you are printing with but goes over the gaps to avoid tr...
cloakfiend replied to topic:
Holy smokes! thats some list...good to know though!
My last acetone job...came out great! so glad the model lined up well..
British Bully split test
3D Print made by cloakfiend
You need to use a slice modifier in any 3d software and then normal align the bases to be flat on the build plate. But make sure you close and weld any holes.
I print closer together but if you are printing tiny things then further apart in my opinion. That way they can cool down more before the next layer goes on.here is my latest print effort....Image: 20171129_092337
The weirdness never seems to end. I had all sort of issues even after using my printer for years! I had something similar at the top of my prints and sometimes double elephant feet at the bottoms, but I print in PLA. ABS was just a headache and gave up after like 7 or 8 prints and I've never looked...
I will check the methyl chloride out as that one seems to be soft. But seeing as pure pla does not react to acetone like the pla/pha from colorfabb then there must be something else in it.And as for using it to smooth large flatter areas, I maging it would be better as i dont think it will...
I also think the model will not split with methylene chloride. So thats a plus. Whilst it 'can' split with the acetone or ethyl acetate. The methyl on pla is like a fine version of acetone on abs but not as destructive so similar to effects of acetone on PLA but more destructive and only really affe...