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  • Posts

    • So wait - you are using 1.75mm pla through smaller bowdens.  Does the bowden go down inside of the print core?  I guess that's fine.  I can't think of any reason it would get hung up.    How do you keep the smaller bowden from retracting into the feeder on retractions and chewing up the bowden in the feeder?
    • Unlike some filaments, PLA tends to be able to last forever.  It doesn't need to be kept dry.  Although if you unspool "old" (even just 1 year old sometimes) PLA into the bowden and leave it in the bowden for 24 hours, many PLA formulations will crack.  If retract the PLA back onto the spool before turning off the printer it's usually fine.  "old" PLA does not like to be straightened out for more than a few hours.   So that could be it.  You can kind of tell because sometimes you can see the PLA has cracks in it when looking through the bowden.  And when there is a retraction, sometimes you see where the crack is closest to the feeder which could be anywhere along the bowden.   One fix is that if you leave filament in the bowden for more than 8 hours, take it out and cut off the last meter and throw that away.  You can test the filament by bending it and it should not break.  It should just bend in a knot.  The longer you leave it unspooled, the more brittle the filament gets.   Then the breaks in the filament reach the print head and sometimes they pass through but other times they get stuck in the printhead and your print fails.  Once you get past the first meter (typically an hour or so) you are usually fine.   I imagine 1.75mm filament isn't as bad because bending it is much less stressful for the plastic.    
    • oh!  I totally misunderstood the graph.  Okay so the orange graph is very flat.  That's fine then.  I was trying to figure out how the temperature was dipping.  But it wasn't.  It's the brown graph that is dipping - that's how much power is applied.  For some reason it needs less power as you go.  Probably extruding slower - or actually as you get farther from the glass bed, there is less bouncing up of the moving air around the nozzle so less nozzle cooling.  That's probably it.   Okay so there's nothing wrong with the temperature profiles.  A red herring.  Well... not much wrong.  Something is loose I suppose and it measures infinite resistance and interprets that as 700 ohms, then kills power to nozzle, then temp retruns and it has to compensate for a bit for the lack of power but briefly enough that nozzle doesn't deviate from goal temp by much.   So your print failure might have nothing to do with temperature.
    • Cura no longer sees our Ultimaker S3. I have tried the following to fix this:    I have uninstalled Cura, then installed the latest version of Cura I installed the latest firmware on the printer itself I deleted all printers from Cura, then added the printer to Cura again. I re-started the wi-fi setup on the printer itself I opened Cura after turning on the printer… no luck I opened Cura before turning on the printer… no luck I rebooted our router   Cura knows our printer exists, but the only option I have now is “save to disk.” “Print over network” and “print over cloud” are no longer options.   In addition, I deleted the printer from the digital factory, then attempted to add the printer back to the digital factory.  The printer says “connected” to TDSwifi. My computer is connected to the same wi-if network as the printer. Despite what I stated above, when I try to add the printer back to the digital factory, the printer says “connection error” and will not display a code to enter into my computer.   How can I make Cura see my printer again?
    • First off: it always makes it a lot easier for us to figure it out if you post a Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project).   But the answer as best as I can tell: You're using trees. You're not getting zigzags as support, you're getting grid (or zigzag, hard to tell because they look pretty much the same) support interface (which is why it's dark blue instead of light blue), which prints on top of the support, the idea being it's easier to remove cleanly after it's printed. (that idea often doesn't bear out in real life).   As for the difference with overhang angle: it's hard to tell based on the screenshots (which is why having the project file is so helpful) but it looks like the back part of your model -  rises up at about a 45° angle, so a 45° support angle won't generate support for it because it assumes the printer can handle a 45° overhang. I usually have my support overhang angle set at about 55° for PLA.   The tree trunks I've highlighted from the first screenshot aren't there to support the main part (with the support interface), they're there to support that raised lip at the back: So why no tree trunks under the support interface? My guess would be Support > Minimum Height to Model (if you can't see it, make sure support structure is set to trees then search for it): it won't generate trees for areas under a certain height to prevent tiny blobs of tree.
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