Post your latest print!

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IRobertI

Posted Apr 16, 2012 - 11:39 AM Reply to topic
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randyinla 3D printing enthusiast Level: 18 Points: 297
Posts: 158
Location: Los Angeles, United States Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker 3 Extended
Posted by
randyinla

Posted May 4, 2017 - 7:40 PM • Edited 5:32 AM

An ex co-worker gave me a small Dopey figurine (from Snow White) when she left.  I thought it'd be fun to scan it and print her out a replica.  As I was preparing to take pictures for uploading to 123DCatch, it slipped and fell to the floor, shattering into a million pieces .  When I told her about the accident, she said she'd prefer some other Disney character.  So I had her browse through thingiverse & youmagine and she found this Mickey-Stormtrooper.  

Printed in MatterHackers pro ABS.  The support for his ear fell over, so I quickly paused the print and crazy glued (with kicker) a strip of ABS I had laying around to the brim and used some white wire to secure it to the head.  Worked perfectly!  The final finish was done with a quick 30 second boiling acetone steam bath.  I put a mason jar on my build plate with about 1/4" of acetone in the bottom.  Raise the temp of the plate until the rest of the jar steams up and quickly dangle the piece in until it looks shiny.

Stormtrooper Mickey
O
owen Feel free to ask me Level: 36 Points: 1130
Posts: 658
Location: Caves Beach NSW, Australia Printers: Ultimaker 2+
Posted by
O
owen

Posted May 5, 2017 - 3:02 AM

That vapour polishing doesn't always look that great due to lost detail but it looks perfect on this print.

randyinla 3D printing enthusiast Level: 18 Points: 297
Posts: 158
Location: Los Angeles, United States Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker 3 Extended
Posted by
randyinla

Posted May 5, 2017 - 5:29 AM

Thanks! Yeah, I ruined plenty of prints way back when I first toyed around with the vapor. I was surprised how fast this one smoothed out. Was literally 20 or 30 seconds. Another thing I love about the process is that once the acetone evaporates, that smooth skin seems harder and more durable than when first pulled off the print bed.

C
carsten 3D printing enthusiast Level: 12 Points: 146
Posts: 25
Location: Germany Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker 2+
Posted by
C
carsten

Posted May 25, 2017 - 1:02 PM

Now, that the hero of my childhood has died, i´d like to show you this little diorama.

I started some time ago, but i finished it today. All vehicles are printed with a 0.25 nozzle, the landscape with a 0.4 nozzle. Most of the parts are made in 3dsMax and Zbrush.

I hope you like it and godspeed, Roger

C
carsten 3D printing enthusiast Level: 12 Points: 146
Posts: 25
Location: Germany Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker 2+
Posted by
C
carsten

Posted May 25, 2017 - 1:30 PM

SandervG Team Ultimaker Points: 8262
Posts: 4630
Location: Geldermalsen, Netherlands Printers: Ultimaker Original+, Ultimaker 2+
Posted by
SandervG

Posted Jun 1, 2017 - 4:40 AM

carsten, good to see you! Your work looks amazing, once again!

wejn Level 1 - Starter Points: 8
Posts: 1
Location: Switzerland Printers: Ultimaker 2 Extended+
Posted by
wejn

Posted Jun 28, 2017 - 4:23 PM

Ok, I'm not sure I can measure up with the previous post, but thought I would share my latest nevertheless. :-)

My wife, since the beginning, sort of tolerates my adventure into 3d printing.

Yesterday evening she mentioned something about upcoming GoT season 7. I jumped at the chance saying "well, why don't we print you a dragon?" She gave me a funny look (since I mainly print utilitarian stuff), but I introduced her to thingiverse... and an hour later, she came back with a model (drogon-from-game-of-thrones-6660 on myminifactory).

She grumbled when I have put it in cura (print time 1day and change), so I resized to about 75%, print time 15h. Queued the model for printing in the morning.

After coming back from work, I found my wife in a good mood. She kept on checking the printer during the day, liking the result.

In the end, I, too, like the result quite a bit:

(Printed with Swissfil gold, Cura 2.6, Fine setting, no support/adhesion, held on the bed with 3D Lac, no post processing)

If only I could convince my phone to focus on the head.

SandervG Team Ultimaker Points: 8262
Posts: 4630
Location: Geldermalsen, Netherlands Printers: Ultimaker Original+, Ultimaker 2+
Posted by
SandervG

Posted Jul 5, 2017 - 8:29 AM

Surface quality looks great!

.. so did she already look for a second model to print?

ian Becoming an expert Level: 58 Points: 2742
Posts: 2219
Location: Germany
Posted by
ian

Posted Aug 24, 2017 - 9:38 AM

its always lovely to see such a beautiful clean print... and i love the color

Ian

L
leliep Level 1 - Starter Points: 2
Posts: 15
Location: Germany
Posted by
L
leliep

Posted Sep 1, 2017 - 4:23 AM

Air quality sensor housing, for details see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2499253

Air Quality Sensor Housing (SDS011)
SDS011 mount plate
Dim3nsioneer Knows the BOM by heart Level: 77 Points: 5424
Posts: 3415
Location: Zurich, Switzerland Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker 2 Go, Ultimaker 2+, Ultimaker 2 Extended+, Ultimaker 3
Posted by
Dim3nsioneer

Posted Sep 1, 2017 - 5:00 AM

Quote by leliep

Air quality sensor housing, for details see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2499253

Which materials did you use? PLA and Nylon?

L
leliep Level 1 - Starter Points: 2
Posts: 15
Location: Germany
Posted by
L
leliep

Posted Sep 1, 2017 - 6:15 AM

Quote by Dim3nsioneer
Quote by leliep

Air quality sensor housing, for details see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2499253

Which materials did you use? PLA and Nylon?

I used PLA for both parts of the housing; the mounting arm and (temporary) base are Nylon. Eventually it will be attached to a wooden post in the garden.

Maybe to make the case weather proof, it needs to get a paint cover, but that's something I have not made (yet).

gr5 Moderator Points: 17231
Posts: 10116
Location: Boston, United States Printers: Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker 2 Extended, Ultimaker 2 Go, Ultimaker 3
Posted by
gr5

Posted Sep 2, 2017 - 8:38 AM • Edited 8:38 AM

I have left PLA out doors for a few years now exposed to sun and rain and it still has the original color, look, feel, etc.  It has no visible erosion or decay.  Although paint might make a better water tight seal.

If you do decide to paint I recommend any automotive primer spray paint (should say it's for plastic and metal) followed by any exterior paint, followed by several layers of clear coat.  Easiest if all 3 are spray paint from an auto parts store but hardware stores should have all this as well.

I'm told acrylic paints also stick well to PLA.

kmanstudios I got this! Level: 42 Points: 1473
Posts: 895
Location: United States Printers: Ultimaker 3 Extended
Posted by
kmanstudios

Posted Sep 3, 2017 - 12:23 AM

Quote by gr5

I have left PLA out doors for a few years now exposed to sun and rain and it still has the original color, look, feel, etc.  It has no visible erosion or decay.  Although paint might make a better water tight seal.

If you do decide to paint I recommend any automotive primer spray paint (should say it's for plastic and metal) followed by any exterior paint, followed by several layers of clear coat.  Easiest if all 3 are spray paint from an auto parts store but hardware stores should have all this as well.

I'm told acrylic paints also stick well to PLA.

Acrylics do stick quite well, but I second the automotive paints for sheer toughness. I use a mix, but almost always prime with an automotive enamel or lacquer. Even on store-bought models (polystyrene plastic kits).

Enamel will always go on Lacquer as it is not as chemically hot. You can lacquer over enamel if you work with very thin coats to build up a shell that will not penetrate to melt the enamel. But you must be very careful with that.

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